We left off with number 20
20 – repeated – where part II left off
21 – the last row is all white for the layout that I am doing. I lay them out in sections of 3 as that is how I sew them before joining them in the “circle” – as you can see in this photo I have already sewed the seams.
22 – the board isn’t quite big enough to keep all of these sections of 3 sitting here without getting in my way so I stack them up and out of my way. I begin at the top once again (although the top is any way you want in this case) and sew one section of three in it’s place, then get my next section – lay it on the board in it’s place to check placement and know exactly where my seam will be stitched.
23 – as shown in this photo I have moved the white section to the main body of the block to check for placement – I do this all the time as now and then I actually get it wrong and have to take a seam out.
24 – pin as we have done for all the other pieces – make sure your seam markings match front and back.
25 – when you have added all of your white pieces to this final “circle” it should look like this
To join all of these blocks together I will be adding some squares to the pattern – I will show how I do that at a much later point! There will also be a border of hexagon’s that are cut so that the outer edges are straight to make this a straight edge quilt.
I encourage everyone who wants to make this quilt to look at Linda’s Inklingo site at the Lucy Boston Patchwork of Crosses page. You will find out information there about making this quilt if you choose to use Linda’s Inklingo method. If you do not want to do the Inklingo method you will need a template the correct size and the book would come in handy for the layout. Also Linda devotes a whole page to different layouts of this block – it can look so different depending on where and how much color you add to it. She also shows how to make a border for the quilt to square it all up.
I hope this tutorial helps you out – any questions – just ask
I left off on the last post with the center completed and moving on to the second color choice in my block – I am picking up from that spot.
8- this is where I left off. We will now add the next color. I like my little miniature design wall for this – by placing it on the felt where it will go it helps me keep my pieces in order – you do not have to do this – again do these steps as you are comfortable with. By laying pieces out you have them laying in the correct placement area – you might want to do your first block or two like this then do what you want. I like to add the second color one piece after another and then add the white pieces.
9 – I always like to start with the piece to the right as I am right handed – when I stitch this short seam I can then slide the needle through the seam and continue to the next seam – I always take a back stitch before I slide the needle through – just makes the intersection a little stronger. Again match your beginning and ending points on the front and the back (where you marked your seams)
10- Maybe it is just me but I find if I fold the piece over next to where I am working (below) that the seam area you are working on lays flatter for stitching this seam.
11- From the back – all seams are now pressed again in a counter clockwise order
12 – The front – now it is time to add more pieces.
13 – I go back to my design wall again (this a 12 1/2 inch sandpaper board with same size felt over it – I have a square ruler that sits over all of this to keep it in place when I am not working on it. What I do next is sew each two segments together and place them back on the felt until I am ready to sew – by segments I mean the 2 pieces of dark yellow, the two pieces of white etc. Now this is the place (and the center) where some people like to do machine work and stitch these seams on the machine then do the Y seams my hand – your choice.
14 – Now you can start anywhere you want to, to begin to attach these sewed pieces. I again start on the right.
15 – Again stitch from point to point –
16 – Slide your needle through the seams when you come to them.
17 – When you are done with this first segment the back will look like this. Continue attaching each around the “circle”
18 – Back to the design wall I picked up the yellow pieces in the corner and then sew them and round and round until this “row” is finished.
19 – this is what it should now look like.
20- the back – I find it helpful if I have a place to iron to press each “row” as I finish it – it can wait until the end of each block if you wish – I just find this easier to work with. If I am in the car or wherever ironing has to wait until I am home of course. I try finger pressing when I can and it I have my “design wall” with me it provides a firm support for doing that.
The next row in Part III
I think I will need to do this tutorial in at least 3 parts- we will see maybe 4 parts but I will post them one after another over a day or two.
If you are using Inklingo you have purchased the pdf file for Lucy Boston Patchwork of the Crosses and have read it over and have an idea of what printing your fabric templates is all about then you are going to be doing it as I am. If you just want the book you can purchase it from Linda Frantz at the Inklingo link on my side bar or the link above. If you just want to wing it you need a hexagon template sometimes called a “honeycomb” as seen at this link that measures one inch on each sides.
I am beginning this tutorial from the point that you have the pieces cut out that you need and have marked your seams either by printing on fabric with your printer or marking you seams in the matter you wish to do so for hand piecing (although you can machine piece if you wish or a combination of both). For hand piecing I use the same needle that I use for quilting – Roxanne #11 – between – I am used to this needle and I love it – if you are hand piecing this quilt – use whatever needle you are comfortable with. Thread for hand piecing I use white YLI hand quilting thread – I love it for hand piecing – it is a sturdy thread – again – use what you are comfortable using.
I am leaving the photos small but you can click on the photo to go to a larger photo.
1 – Pick out your fabric to go with your design. This that I have pictured will have one more row of white all the way around pictured later in the tutorial. You can fussy cut any or all of the pieces if you wish to do so. If you purchase Linda’s book you will see a variety of layouts – they do not all have to be like mine are. With different placement of color the design can change.
2- starting in the center using two pins – pin at the intersections
look at the back and make sure your intersections are lined up and then sew.
3- I use a small running stitch and every 4 or 5 stitches I take a back stitch to make the piece strong.
4- now that I have both of the center pieces stitch I can join them to complete the center
5- I normally just work with two pins – use as many as you like. I again match points on the front and back – and the center seam
6 – when you come to a seam slide your needle through it and then continue sewing your seam
7-press your seams going in clockwise or counter clockwise I suppose that depends on if you are right or left handed and swirl the center so it won’t have a bump if you wish.
8 – your front of the center will now look like this and you are ready to attach your next colors.
By marking your seams and making sure you stay on the lines you have perfect 1/4 inch seams.
I will post Part II later in the day.